Walks: Hood of course
Distances: 1 day of almost rest; 1 day 4 miles
Walks: Hood of course
Distances: 1 day of almost rest; 1 day 4 miles
Walks: Hood
Distance: 4 miles average
So that plant taking up much of Ciwt's bureau top was supposed to start drying out, turning brown and dying some time after its Christmas bloom.
Walk: Hood, Vogue Theater (Late Fame)
Distance: 4.5 miles
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| Late Fame |
Walks: Mostly around home, putting things back in place after trip
Distance: 2 miles average
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| The carriage rides were cancelled to save the horses from the heat. - along with most of the reenactments you see in pictures on line. |
When she went out the next morning, her next surprise was how spick and span the replicated village was. Every wood building creamy white, every stone building chipless. The 1776 inhabitants must have spent their days tidying in and out between planning for a revolution, then executing it. Ciwt had expected to be instantly cast back into history, instead it was a matter of suspending disbelief. By day two her sensibilities had adjusted; so, if you are going to go, Ciwt suggests 3 days, 2 to get into the feeling. Otherwise you might end up with the impression of the great architectural reviewer, Ada Louise Huxtable: a 'superbly executed vacuum.'
Or as she wrote in her The Unreal America: “What the perfect fake or impeccable restoration lacks are the hallmarks of time and place. They deny imperfections, alterations, and accommodations; they wipe out all the incidents of life and change. The worn stone, the chafed corner, the threshold low and uneven from many feet, the marks on walls and windows that carry the presence and message of remembered hands and eyes….are absent or erased. There is nothing left of the journey from there to here, nothing that palpably joins the past to the present, that makes direct physical and emotional contact with the viewer, the bittersweet link with those who have been there before.”
But then Ciwt majored in U.S. History and gives art tours. If she had been on the 'restoration' (ie, rebuild, replace, eliminate) committee in the 1930's when the vast and beyond expensive project ($100M+) was ongoing, what would she have done? You can't have original buildings - even if they exist - because they would look like off-putting slums and probably collapse on the first visitors. And having a whole mix of the architectural styles that actually were in place might confuse the educational focus. The project was and is meant to be educational, and it succeeds in large part with the costumed employees and their historical reenactments and spiels. It is hard to say whether children fall for all of this or how deeply they are educated. Many adults apparently are very pleased; There is one story of a couple who has returned 153 times since first visiting on their honeymoon.
Now for the First Class venues: The Art and Archelogical Museums!! Because she had such a short time, Ciwt let AI plan her trip and he/she/it took her to the historical buildings the first day and reserved the second and last day for the Art. In fact Ciwt could have spent her entire trip at the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Museum, DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum and even the newly opened Archaeological Museum. She would definitely return for those. Fortunately, they all of have extensive online presences where she can spend time now that she is back. A nice surprise.
Walks: Williamsburg, DC
Distances: 5 hot, humid miles average
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| Not Gonna Happen... |
So, Ciwt is a traveler of very limited focus. From the minute she gets serious about a trip, all eyes are on it and all nervous system parts begin fighting against the entire concept. It always a race between going ahead and cancelling. This is all very un-2026 in which toddlers have already traveled internationally - several times.
Their parents, Ciwt presumes, think of planes like Ciwt thinks of walking - a pleasant (enough) way to get wherever you want as often as you want. Not Ciwt; she took one look at an airplane sometime around age 5 and decided immediately and conclusively: A big metal think like that Can't fly!! To this day, even though 10's of thousands of planes prove her absolutely wrong on a daily basis, her five year old self remains steadfast. "Doesn't mean the next one will. Doesn't mean the one she gets one will make it."
So, heeding her inner five year old, she has canceled many trips, some at the very last minute. And the few she has taken, like this last one, have been cliffhangers. Then there is the matter of the return flight....
Okay, all that said, she's happily back to her beloved CIWT and her more beloved readers.
Walks: Hood, AMC Kabuki (Acme vs Coyote)
Distance average: 3 miles
So when Ciwt was a kid, the Looney Tunes characters in the shorts before the main movie seemed like silly friends. Particularly Wile E Coyote and his ridculously impossible and always 'fatal' attempts to catch his nemesis, the Beep Beep, Road Runner! Now they - and all sorts of other Looney Tunes friends - are back on the screen in Coyote vs. Acme, and Ciwt suggests you rocket right to a theater to see it.
(But don't take an Acme rocket if you expect to get there!) If you are of 'a certain age' you're sure to have a delightfully.nostalgic time being entertained by the zany, imaginative, lighthearted getaway with a teeny amoung of seriousness and a lot of heart. No thinking needed.
| Mutual Friends photographer: Ernest Porter |
Walks: SFMOMA
Distance average: 4 miles
So, Ciwt is absorbing the new look of SFMOMA. They have completely rehung the Fisher Collection filling four of the huge museum's seven viewing floors with 750 out of the 1,000+ art works bequeathed by Don and Doris Fisher. A mighty undertaking which we're told fulfills SFMOMA's agreement with the Fishers that an important exhibition of their collection would be mounted every 10 years. Probably it was time anyway because much of the Fisher art had remained in the same place since 2016.
For Ciwt a big problem of the massive rehang is that the Fisher Collection introductory tours she has been giving since 2016 have been organized around the old hanging. So, how is she doing taking in the new placements? Well, she started a few months ago when she was invited to a special presentation of the rehanging by the curators in charge. And she was horrified. She thinks the story of (modern) art, its history, its evolution, the way one look of art influenced the next work, the thinking and stirrings around all that. There is a fascinating story there, like there is in all history. (To Ciwt) And that story, the pretty much agreed on scholastic story modern art tells, was gone. For instance, Sol Dewitt, Alexander Calder and Ellworth Kelly, highly important, influential artists who had interesting real world connections with each other now occupied an entire floor grouped together by something impersonal and (to Ciwt) off-putting like "Artists Who Worked with Line and Form."
This was very not right (to Ciwt) and her initial reaction was to reject the entire rehang out of hand. For numerous and more adult reasons she pulled herself out of her pout and has now spent considerable time studying the new placements. Clearly prodigious multidisciplinary efforts and thinking went into the rehang project and Ciwt admires this. Without a guide like Ciwt, modern art is truly incomprehensible to most people. Great educational pains have been taken to teach viewers about each artist's intention or historical period or working technique. There are multiple pictures of the artists, young and old, videos of them or others speaking about their art, individual headphones to listen for more information, extensive expanatory signage with braille tablets for the blind. Especially if the viewer is new to modern art or Don and Doris Fisher, viewers are given abundant information and ways to access it.
But, so far in her efforts to integrate the rehang - maybe form a new tour in her mind - Ciwt is questioning whether all this education is Too educational. In many rooms she feels more aware of the the education but not the art. She wonders how many viewers the art is able to speak to. Looking at the art, 'hearing' it speak, allowing it to communicate (or not) is how she herself was drawn to it. Her spirit was touched and the rest followed. There are greeting cards, posters, even coffee cups which can spark immediate connection in old, young and art ignorant souls. No education needed.
So Ciwt, at least at this point in her integration, is wondering whether viewers are being over educated. Are they able to just look and be moved in some way first? But, Ciwt learns intuitively by seeing and listening. Too much (factual) informaton alienates her. But in this multimedia age maybe the Fisher Collection rehang is communicating beautifully to most people. The various curators at SFMOMA are aware these ways of presenting art are a departure from tradition. So, Ciwt is continuing to keep the doors open to her conclusions about SFMOMA these days. Another type of education - learning how to push at her own boundaries.
Walks: small hood
Distance Average: 3 miles
So the other morning Ciwt came sleepily to her computer, turned it on and ...Boom! A little birdie woke her right up! Small, brightly colored Tanagers have a way of doing that.
but it might have been a Red Cardinal
. Either way she has remembered her happy excitement ever since.Walks: Hood
Distance: 3 miles average
Seems dicey to Ciwt to make a biographical movie based on a young Anthony Bourdain. Ciwt was thoroughly entertained by Bourdain's writings and TV shows but not a weekly followed, and even she still feels the sad shock of his 2018 end. But she is glad director Matt Johnson went ahead with Tony and that she got herself to one of our neighborhood theaters to see it. It is well acted throughout, with Antonio Banderas as supporting standouts, nearly entirely believeable, highly entertaining and - best of all to her - gives insight into Bourdain's mental workings That last sheds new light on Montaigne's "seize the moment."
Walk: Hood
Distance: 4 miles
So older San Francisco architecture is primarily Victorian and most of our residences don't have stoops. Those little or big areas in front where people put chairs, tables, often swings, fan themselves in the summer heat, drink ice tea or stronger, wave to and socialize with neighbors passing by. Come to think of it, San Francisco just isn't a very neighborly city that way. Maybe because it began in earnest during/because of the Gold Rush where almost entirely men from every nation came one by one all at once seeking their own personal fortunes. The number who intended to stay around was likely exceeding small. Some - 95% men - did stay in San Francisco. Wide spread domestic settling - rooting - happened eventually, but San Francisco still retains very much of that boom or bust spirit.
But it is a beautiful city, and we all share our delight in that. Maybe not as welcoming or sociable as stoops are the tiny and big gardens along our sidewalks. Most of them, if even a few square feet, are filled with artfully placed seasonal flowers and shrubs and carefully tended. In their quiet way they say somebody cares and are a fresh "hello,"have a good day," "enjoy," in passing. They light up Ciwt's daily walks.
Walks: Hood
Distance: 4 miles average
So the elephant that keeps popping up in Ciwt's mind and life is age. She tries not to notice or think of it as a big deal. And she particularly tries not to mention it to her wonderful CIWT readers. Somewhere in the air many years ago she picked up some messages about old age talk: It is boring; No one want to hear about it; it is completely individual, etc. Ie, Do Not Talk About it!!
But that's gettin harder and harder because old age is right smack in the middle of her life all the time these days. It's in her hip. her thin and thinning hair, her balance, her overall snap, crackle and pop, just for openers. The number of workarounds for age increases daily and, she is slowly getting, they are going to increase, not become unnecessary. It is strange territory, but she's in it and needing to figure out how to navigate it. She's even considering giving herself permission to talk about it from time to time in CIWT.
She may open up about other 'no no to her' topics, including a cat entry or two. We'll see. Just so you know....
Walks: Hood
Distance average: 4 miles
So, some quote Ciwt read recently declared "The best people are born in August." Quite over the top, but today, August 7, is her birthday so she will take it. Oh, and her cats too. They are 10; Ciwt is....let's just say a delicate age.
Walks: Hood
Distance Average: 4.5 miles
Well, here's August with its strange mix of sadness, lack of motivation, sort of lostness for Ciwt. What to make of August? There's so much 'same old, same old' in it. Out here it is the same old cold, grey, Windy weather; back East it was the 'dog days' of windless heat, clothes clinging humidity and smelly green weeds covering the lake. It's not a ho hum month for Ciwt, too disjointed for that.
Many people love August, its slowness, gentleness, its deep summerness. Some others feel more like Ciwt.
Poet Sylvia Plath for instance who wrote:
Love, Ciwt
Walks: Hood, deYoung Museum
Distances: 4 miles average
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| Coffin lid of Queen Ahhotep II. Egyptian, Luxor, West Bank, Dra Abu el-Naga, tomb of Queen Ahhotep II. New Kingdom, Late Dynasty 17 or early 18, reign of Ahmose I. Wood, gilded, painted, and stucco. |
So, virtually everything Ciwt has seen or knows about the ancient Egyptian life and culture stems from the two massive exhibitions the deYoung Museum and MondoMostre hav mounted in collaboration with the Supreme Council of Antiquities of Egypt. Beginning August 1 Treasures of the Pharaohs, a third of these ancient Egyptian visual and educational extravaganzas will be on view until January 31, 2027. Judging from the large number of dignitaries and members of the press at yesterday's Press Preview, it will draw viewers from all over the world.
Good! Like Ciwt, visitors will get rare insights into ancient Egyptian society, its beliefs and creations. The exhibition begins at the top with the pharaohs who were considered kings, military leaders and chief priests from ca 3100 BC until 30 BC when Egypt was invaded by Rome. But the pharaohs were not loners; in order to carry otr their many social, political, spiritual, military functions, they depended on royal family members, a complex bureaurocracy of high-ranking officials, artisans whose creations included daunting symbols of power, exquisite jewelry and furnishings.
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| Armchair of Princess Sitamun, Egyptian, Luxor, Valley of the Kings, Tomb of Yuya and Thuya (KV 46), New Kingdom, reign of Amenhotep III, wood, gold leaf, stucco, plant fibers |
And the all important servants who made everyday life not just functional but beautiful, refined - and fun!
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| Servant brewing beer, Egyptian, Giza necropolis, Old Kingdom, dynasty 5, Limestone, painted |
Walks: Hood
Distance Average: 4 miles
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| Henri Matisse, Woman with Hat, 1905, oil on canvas |
So here it is. THE painting that electrified modern art. THE painting that magnetizesd Paris pulling to the city throngs of artists who had been struggling to break from academic rules and truly express themselves. THE painting that was presented at the 1905 Salon d'Automne and so shocked the Parisian public that they spat on it, attempted to shred it with their fingernails and who knows what other vandalism. Their tastes were essentially taken directly from art critics and academics: proper portraits still should resemble the Mona Lisa in their minds' eyes; they hadn't even accepted Monet and Impressionism yet. Word (and uproar) of THE painting traveled internationally: Matisse was hung in effigy in Chicago for instance. THE painting that shocked the artist himself because he had painted sincerely what he had discovered about color with no intention of causing uproar. And then, when uproar ensued, cautioned his wife (whose portrait this is) not to attend the exhibition for fear of her safety.
THE painting that announced to artists, critics, art teachers, anyone who would listen with their eyes that COLOR in and of itself was a means of artistic expression. From THE painting on, free and personally expressive use of color set modern art apart from the past.
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| SFMOMA recreaction: Apartment of Leo and Gertrude Stein, Paris, 1909 with Picasso's 1907 Portrait of Gertrude Stein hanging above Matisse's Woman With Hat |
THE painting that Picasso looked at many times hanging just below his own portrait of Gertrude Stein (1905-6) in the legendary apartment/salon she shared with her brother Leo. At the time Picasso was a young, yet unsung, impoverished artist who had moved to Paris five years before. He was favored by the Steins and was still struggling mightily - over 90 sittings! and still not finished - to complete the portrait Gertrude Stein had commissioned. During that time he was on the edge of a breakthrough but not quite there, and he knew when looking at THE painting that Matisse had advanced to the higher plain Picasso was seeking. Eventually, largely because of THE painting, Picasso created the next most influential painting of early modern art. In it Picasso brought geometric forms, fragmented perspectives, elements of African masks and sculptures, raw personal emotion into Western European art. Cubism.
(Picasso invited Matisse to view it, and Matisse, from his experience with Woman with Hat, cautioned him not to show it. Picasso, having witnessed the uproar first hand, heeded his advice and waited several years before bringing it public. Even then and actually to this day it the reaction was shock, even horror).
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| Pablo Picasso, Les Demoiselles d'Avignon, 1907, oil on canvas |
THE painting that Ciwt starts all of her art tours with or makes sure people are aware of even if her tour has a different focus. It is a minor miracle that THE painting is in the collection of SFMOMA. It came almost directedly from the walls of the 1905 Paris Salon bought - almost against his will - by Leo Stein, as part of a collection he and his sister Gertrude were assembling. Again there are whole important art stories regarding the Steins' collection. THE painting is like looking at the first wheel in modern art terms.
There is Much more - interesting, important -about THE Painting; but enough, dear readers, for today. Except to say that, to CIWT, little -if any - of the true Shocking energy, excitement, vital importance of THE Painting is present in SFMOMA's exhibition: Matisse's Femme au chapeau: A Modern Scandal. Ciwt has been several times, and was interested to see the general look of the 1906 Salon and learn several the historical facts and personalities surrounding THE painting. But, considering all the exhibition could (and really - from art scholars - should) have been, she found it a 'shockingly' ho hum dud.
Walks: Hood
Distance Average: 4 miles
Walk: Hood, AMC Kubuki Theater (The Odyssey)
Distance: 4.5 miles average
The Odyssey movie Ratings:
Rotten Tomatoes Critics: 95%
Rotten Tomatoes Audience: 97%
Ciwt: 78% - mostly for special effects and scope of undertaking by Writer/Director Nolan,
95% (probably) -as a blockerbuster pure and simple (although Ciwt doesn't go to many of those so is taking the RT Critics' reviews score)
30% for the Rest
So Ciwt went to the first matinee of The Odyssey because of its very high Rotten Tomatoes ratings and because she had never read the Homer poetic epic. This would be her chance to have a superb getaway and take in one of the most significant works of the Western canon. (Wikipedia)/ among the greatest literary achievements in human history (historyandculture.org).
What she actually saw (between naps) was more of the same movie making she's been staying out of the theaters (sadly) to avoid: zero meaningful dialogue, acting that went from blunt to inept, AI generated monsters and creepy settings, one man taking on the entire world, prolonged manly fight after manly fight after manly fight causing horrific death after horrific death after horrific death. Brute movie making. In other words, for her, as a top rated over all movie, the emperor had no clothes.
This is not movie making that Ciwt values. But clearly it is movie making of the times and Ciwt is a dinosaur. Her list of 'her type' of movies is extensive, and basically duplicates any Top 100 Movies Ever lists - maybe in slightly different order. She's certainly no stranger to violence and loved: Psycho, Pulp Fiction and much of Tarantino's work, The Godfathers 1 & 2. In terms of modern movies of her type she would point to Parasite as the most stunningly brilliant movies she has ever seen - including its bloodbath and early stomach turning setting.
Every one of these movies - and more - have some combination of great acting, meaningful dialogue and plot, depth, psychological/human truth, intrigue, often humor. The list goes on. They were worth Ciwt's time (often multiple times) and she would happily recommend them.
But today's aesthetic - at least in movies for now - has morphed. She gets it; it is bigger than her apparently. That a movie as one note as The Odyssey can be reviewed by the audience as Perfect in every way from cinematography, sound mixing, acting writing and direction, ABSOLUTELY INSANELY INCREDIBLE, etc is disappointing to Ciwt but no longer shocks her.
But it does disappoint her.
Addendum - Great minds (except his is about 10 times greater)...Ciwt has a film buddy who wrote his thoughts about The Odyssey a few weeks after Ciwt's post. Here it is:
Walk: You know - Hood & Presidio
Distance: 4.5 miles average
Walks: Hood and Presidio (of course)
Distance Average: 4 miles
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| Val Diamond, San Francisco Hat and Harnass |
Walks: Hood, Presidio. AMC Kabuki
A foursome of actors on Ciwt's favorites list, intelligent/ultimately thought provoking and truthful script, great comic timing, superior film making. Ciwt is not necessarily recommending The Invite. But, overall, what's not to like - even though the movie events often made her squirm?
Walk: Presidio
Distance: 3.5 miles