Walks: Mostly around home, putting things back in place after trip
Distance: 2 miles average
So overall, Ciwt was mostly surprised by Colonial Williamsburg. First by its size. She had been planning her trip based on the map above. The tiny map above. If you can read it, you see there are no distance/scale markers. So, in the dark of night, when her driver told her they had entered the site, she was surprised when he kept driving and driving and driving until they finally reached the Inn where she was staying. In fact Colonial Williamsburg is 301 acres, a mile and half long and at least 8 blocks side to side. In 'normal' weather, a slightly challenging but comfortable, walking day. In 95 degree, 90 percent humidity, bordering on hell.
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| The carriage rides were cancelled to save the horses from the heat. - along with most of the reenactments you see in pictures on line. |
When she went out the next morning, her next surprise was how spick and span the replicated village was. Every wood building creamy white, every stone building chipless. The 1776 inhabitants must have spent their days tidying in and out between planning for a revolution, then executing it. Ciwt had expected to be instantly cast back into history, instead it was a matter of suspending disbelief. By day two her sensibilities had adjusted; so, if you are going to go, Ciwt suggests 3 days, 2 to get into the feeling. Otherwise you might end up with the impression of the great architectural reviewer, Ada Louise Huxtable: a 'superbly executed vacuum.'
Or as she wrote in her The Unreal America: “What the perfect fake or impeccable restoration lacks are the hallmarks of time and place. They deny imperfections, alterations, and accommodations; they wipe out all the incidents of life and change. The worn stone, the chafed corner, the threshold low and uneven from many feet, the marks on walls and windows that carry the presence and message of remembered hands and eyes….are absent or erased. There is nothing left of the journey from there to here, nothing that palpably joins the past to the present, that makes direct physical and emotional contact with the viewer, the bittersweet link with those who have been there before.”
But then Ciwt majored in U.S. History and gives art tours. If she had been on the 'restoration' (ie, rebuild, replace, eliminate) committee in the 1930's when the vast and beyond expensive project ($100M+) was ongoing, what would she have done? You can't have original buildings - even if they exist - because they would look like off-putting slums and probably collapse on the first visitors. And having a whole mix of the architectural styles that actually were in place might confuse the educational focus. The project was and is meant to be educational, and it succeeds in large part with the costumed employees and their historical reenactments and spiels. It is hard to say whether children fall for all of this or how deeply they are educated. Many adults apparently are very pleased; There is one story of a couple who has returned 153 times since first visiting on their honeymoon.
Now for the First Class venues: The Art and Archelogical Museums!! Because she had such a short time, Ciwt let AI plan her trip and he/she/it took her to the historical buildings the first day and reserved the second and last day for the Art. In fact Ciwt could have spent her entire trip at the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Museum, DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum and even the newly opened Archaeological Museum. She would definitely return for those. Fortunately, they all of have extensive online presences where she can spend time now that she is back. A nice surprise.






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